Cracked clay tiles, orphaned furnace flues, stove inserts — a correctly sized stainless liner fixes what the camera finds.
Call (810) 250-7909A camera scan answers the liner question in an hour. Get the footage, the explanation, and a written quote. Call (810) 250-7909.
The liner is the chimney's inner skin — the passage that actually carries smoke and combustion gases out of your house. Most Genesee County chimneys built in the 1950s–70s have clay tile liners, and clay tile has a service life. When an inspection camera finds cracked, shifted, or flaking tiles, the fix is usually a stainless steel reline: a continuous metal flue run down the old chimney, sized correctly for what it vents, insulated, and connected top to bottom.
Here's the pattern a camera finds over and over in mid-century Genesee County basements: the house was built with the furnace and water heater sharing the masonry chimney. Decades later, a high-efficiency furnace arrived and went out the sidewall in PVC — leaving the water heater alone ("orphaned") on a flue sized for both appliances. The oversized flue drafts poorly, the exhaust condenses, and the moisture eats tile and mortar from the inside. The fix is a correctly sized liner for what's actually left on the flue — a modest job that prevents an expensive chimney-top rebuild later.
Clay tile is a fine liner while it's intact — replacing individual tiles deep in a stack, though, is rarely practical. Stainless systems are the standard repair because they install without dismantling the chimney, carry lifetime warranties from major manufacturers, and can be sized exactly to the appliance. The right answer depends on what the camera sees; you'll get the footage and the reasoning with the quote.
A failing liner doesn't announce itself — the camera finds it. Call to schedule a scan.
(810) 250-7909Usually you don't — from the hearth, a cracked tile forty feet up looks like nothing. Warning signs when they do appear: tile shards in the firebox, poor draft, damp patches or white staining on the chimney's exterior. The definitive answer is a Level 2 camera scan.
It varies with flue height, diameter, insulation requirements, and what the liner vents — a water heater flue liner and a tall insulated wood-stove liner are very different jobs. Every quote comes from actual measurements and camera footage, in writing, before work starts.
When a furnace gets upgraded and vents out the sidewall, the water heater is left alone on a masonry flue sized for two appliances. The oversized flue drafts badly and condenses exhaust moisture into the masonry. A correctly sized stainless liner solves it.
Yes. An insert dumped into an open fireplace flue without a continuous, correctly sized liner drafts poorly and builds creosote fast. A full-height insulated liner matched to the stove's outlet is the safe, code-consistent installation.
Most stainless reline jobs are done in a day — the liner drops from the top, connects at the appliance or firebox, and gets capped and sealed. No dismantling of the chimney structure is needed in the typical case.